Where were you born?
Michael was born in Kua Chou in South Western China in 1941. His original name was Jeng Dong Koh. When he was very young, his father was sent to Taiwan with the army.
Why did you leave your place of birth?
In 1948, at the age of 7, Jeng Dong was taken on a difficult journey to Taiwan, to reunite with his father.
He travelled with his uncle and remembers clearly that the journey was 'horrible'. It was long and difficult and he can still recall travelling through a wartorn landscape and experiencing the unavoidable fallout of the Chinese Civil War: injured soldiers and hungry destitute refugees.
Because the war continued in China and the Taiwan Straits, his mother and siblings were unable to leave China to join them and the family remained separated throughout his childhood. He did not reunite with his mother and siblings until 1978 when he was able to bring them to the UK (with the help of his local MP & Margaret Thatcher).
Where did you grow up?
Jeng Dong lived with his father on a military base and attended the army school. By the age of 20, he was ready to leave Taiwan. For him, the culture was very restrictive and it was clear that he would need @to work very hard for little or no reward’. His father tried to persuade him to join the army but he didn't want to.
An opportunity arose on a Merchant Navy ship and he signed up to be a sea cadet, travelling to the UK on a Scottish ship. It took five weeks to travel from Taiwan to the UK by sea. In his view, the journey was extremely ‘boring’.
Before he left Taiwan, he didn’t know very much about the UK. Even though it was tough after he arrived (he quickly realised that he didn’t want to become a sea cadet) he jokes that it felt like he had arrived in ‘paradise’ compared to the tough life in China and Taiwan.
What was your first job in the UK? Or did you come to study?
He arrived in London and went to Southampton and attended military school as a cadet. There were some other cadets from Singapore and the sons of the presidents of Burma and Panama were also cadets.
He disliked the discipline and harsh environment and after one year left. He discovered that he needed British qualifications if he wanted to be accepted to university and was sent to technical college in Willesden where he studied O levels and A levels in Applied and Pure Maths and Physics (with a view to going to university to study Engineering).
About Willesden Technical College (1934-1991) (pictured right): “With the need for local skilled workers, Willesden Technical College opened in 1934 at Denzil Road, off Dudden Hill Lane. The College provided courses formerly taught at the Polytechnic in Kilburn, and also included courses in art and building. In 1964, the College took over the buildings of Dudden Hill Lane school, on the corner of Cooper Road, one of Willesden's wonderful three-decker Board Schools, built in the early 20th century.” Wembley Matters, 18 July 2020
When did you start working at Kuo Yan and how did that come about?
When Jeng Dong was living and studying in Willesden and living on Clifford Gardens, NW10 he needed work to support himself. Through contacts he got a job at Kuo Yan as an assistant to Mr Kuo, who was the chef and owner. Once he settled in London he changed his name to Michael Kerr.
What do you remember about the chef and the restaurant? Can you describe the restaurant and the chef? Were other people employed at the restaurant? What do you remember?
Michael recalls that the former Ambassador's chef, Mr Kuo, was a smart and kind man in his 50s. He wore chef whites and was slightly balding, with slicked-back dark hair (right).
Michael learned to cook the speciality dishes by watching Mr Kuo’s techniques and taking small tastes of the food that was served. Mr Kuo did not teach or share his skills - and enouraged Jeng Dong to learn through observation.
The most popular dishes served were Peking duck and duck pancakes and they also served a wide range of other typical dishes. They used mainly English ingredients and bought some Chinese products from Indian-owned shops which were already importing products from Asia.
In the early days the restaurant was small, with a maximum of ten tables and a tiny kitchen. The main restaurant was simply furnished and very low key in terms of decoration. However there were always white tablecloths on the tables.
Mr Kuo was also skilled in Chinese calligraphy and a sign written by Mr Kuo is hung on the wall of the restaurant in Cambridge: translated it says 'Respect for Good Cooking'.
Do you know why Willesden was chosen for the restaurant location? What was Willesden like at that time? Do you remember any other shops or businesses?
Michael describes Willesden as being a poor area at this time, with many 'drunk Irishmen' rather that the refined English people he had expected to meet when he left Taiwan.
However the rents were cheap and this suited his student budget - and the restaurant.
Mr Kuo had a strong reputation as a chef and wealthy well-connected people travelled a long way to eat at his restaurant. Michael points out that there was very little competition in London at the time - there were few restaurants and according to Michael, the English food was ‘pretty bad’.
In Willesden, along with the Irish community there were Jewish businesses and Jewish migrants living in the area - but Michael notes they did not come to the restaurant because they only ate kosher food.
Did you live in Willesden area, or close by? Did you live with other chefs? What do you remember?
He lived on Clifford Gardens, alone, not with other chefs. He said Mr Kuo also bought a house in Willesden.
Do you remember any famous visitors to Kuo Yan? What is your favourite memory of your time there?
He doesn’t remember famous faces from his Kuo Yan days but recalls Ken Lo visiting his restaurant, Mandarin, on Finchley Road (he opened this restaurant in 1967).
What was the Chinese community like when you first came to the UK and how has it changed?
The community was small when he arrived and it has grown. He experienced racism but felt affinity with other immigrants especially Jewish immigrants in north London. He feels that his immigrants' drive to do well in business and hard working Chinese culture has served him well. His four children have grown up in Cambridge and have successful careers in medicine, fashion, art and finance - and are not interested in the restaurant business.
Did you import Chinese products, or buy groceries for your restaurant from Wing Yip or similar importers?
He says it was always possible to adapt local ingredients to make Chinese food as the techniques (eg stir fry) made the available ingredients taste better.
Do you serve similar food today in your restaurant in Cambridge? What has changed, if anything?
The menu is similar. He moved to Cambridge in 1985 because he was offered a restaurant opportunity there but ended up staying. He owns three restaurants in Cambridge and still owns the site of his first restaurant "Mandarin" on Finchley Road NW3 (279c Finchley Road NW3). He has owned in for 40+ years (including the flat above).
“Giles Coren’s happiest moments as a child were meals with his family at the local Chinese. In an extract from his new book, he explains why no other restaurant has ever matched the joy of prawn toast and spring rolls at the Gourmet Rendezvous”I only know that the owner of the Mandarin, five doors down, is called Michael, and that we don’t go there any more because he likes us too much, and is always trying to give us free things, which is embarrassing.”